From a distance, the ground between the two peaks of Japfü looked like a green, freshly mowed lawn. But with each step, the blades of grass transformed. They grew thicker and longer, rising like spires out of the earth. Soon, the illusion was broken. The “lawn” was a mirage. What looked like grass turned out to be ten-foot bamboo that completely engulfed us.
It felt like a trick. We were invited to a lawn and found ourselves in a bamboo maze. We lost a sense of direction as the tall bamboos made it impossible to peek above them. Every turn looked identical and made it tricky to navigate the maze. You could walk for ten minutes and find yourself in the exact spot where you started. Our only guide was the narrow trail left by hikers before us. We followed it for about twenty minutes and emerged from the maze to this spectacular view.
This is the second peak of Japfu. The first one, before the bamboo maze, is distinctly marked.
Jafpü is a lesser-known, moderately challenging hike located in the Kigwema village in Nagaland, a place best known for hosting the vibrant Hornbill Festival.
Essentials: Trek and Guide details
| Trek location | Kigwema village, Nagaland |
| Trek length | 8.60 km (two-way) |
| Elevation Gain | 1,521 m |
| Guide Details | Kethu: +91 9366177086 |
| Starting point | We started from Dawn Homestay |
| Route file | Japfu.gpx (upload to Gaia GPS or any map app to follow the trail) |
| Inner Line Permit (required for Nagaland) | Apply for it here, Nagaland Inner Line Permit. |
What I liked most about Jafpü was the rapidly changing landscapes. Each section ends suddenly and evolves into something entirely new – as if distinct terrains have been stitched together to form one long trail. It also makes it easy to divide the climb into these sections.
Potato Farms
We started early from Dawn Homestay on a cold morning. It was pitch dark as our guide led us into a car, and we soon veered off the highway onto a narrow road marked Pony Farm. A short drive on a bumpy road took us to the potato farms.
Be careful not to trample the potatoes!
Dense Forest
The trail leads through the potato farms and into a dense jungle. We often found ourselves having to pave our way through the bushes and vines. The loose soil made our climb slippery, and the darkness slowed our ascent.
A little further, through an opening, still far away from the peak, we caught sight of the sun rising to greet us.
The Road
We emerged from the thicket onto an abandoned paved road. Our guide explained that it once connected to Kohima, but had fallen into disuse years ago. Compared to the steep climb behind us, the flat stretch felt like a welcome relief.
At the end of the road, the trail bent left and began crawling upwards over a carpet of roots from ancient trees.
The Climb
Further along, we encountered the first of two rock climbs. Ropes anchored at the top made the ascent manageable, so we did not need extra climbing equipment.
The first was just a short boulder.
Ahead lay the second – much taller, rising like a gateway to the first peak of Jafpü.
Beyond it stood a cross, draped with a red flag, marking the summit.
Bamboo Maze
From here, we turned towards the second peak, leading us into a maze of bamboo.
The towering stalks made it impossible to peek over them, and each turn looked identical to the last. Our only guide was the faint track left by those who had walked before us.
We followed the trail for nearly twenty minutes and emerged to this view.
After a while, we descended along the same route we had climbed. The slippery soil tested our balance, and more than once we wished for a pair of hiking poles to steady us.
What makes Japfü unforgettable is its variety. From potato farms and dense forests to rock faces, abandoned roads, and a bamboo maze—the trail constantly shifts, keeping you guessing at what lies ahead. Along the way, we found bright flowers, wild orchids, and unique flora dotting the trail, adding bursts of color against the green backdrop.
If you are in Nagaland and looking for a trek that blends challenge, beauty, and discovery, Japfü is worth every step.
Happy hiking!
The crucial question is not how to climb without fear — but how to deal with it when it creeps into your nerve endings.
Alex Honnold
